If you’re sewing with denim, it’s essential to understand your fabric before you start. This will help you to choose the best fit and finish your project.
Denim is a hard-wearing fabric made from cotton and woven in a twill pattern. This twill is what makes denim thick and durable.
What is Denim?
Denim is a type of cotton fabric with a durable twill weave. Its characteristic diagonal ribbing is the hallmark of this sturdy material and makes it popular for dressmaking.
It was developed in Nimes, France, called “Serge de Nimes.” The fabric was then used for workers’ clothes and became a popular fashion item. In the United States, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis invented jeans in 1873 based on this sturdy twill fabric used initially for waist overalls.
When looking for denim, it’s essential to know that there are different types and weights. You can use this knowledge to choose the suitable material for your sewing project.
Lightweight denim is ideal for lighter garments and interior finishing, while heavyweight denim is suitable for hardier applications. You should also check the fiber content to ensure it’s made from elastane to provide stretch.
The color of denim results from the dye used to make it. It is primarily indigo, but other natural and synthetic colors can be used to create unique effects. It’s perfect for printed denim fabric. Remember that blue denim will fade over time, so it’s best to keep your jeans clean by washing them frequently.
Denim Fabric Types
Denim is a versatile fabric used to make all kinds of garments. It’s a fabric that can be woven in various patterns and is available in several different weights. Knowing which types of denim are available will help you select the suitable material for your dressmaking project.
The type of cotton fiber that is used to weave denim determines the texture and feel of the finished product. Most denim fabrics use a strong cotton thread woven in a twill pattern, with more warp yarns than weft yarns. The warp yarns are often dyed with indigo, while the weft yarns remain white to create a durable and textured fabric.
Traditional blue denim uses a 50/50 mix of indigo-dyed yarns and white or bleached yarns to produce the classic deep blue color that we associate with denim. Other denim doesn’t have a mix of indigo and white but instead features one or more colors of yarn woven with white opposing threads to produce a wide range of shades and textures.
Some denim is preshrunk, which means that they’re washed and compressed in a factory during the manufacturing process to minimize shrinkage after purchase. However, this can result in the fabric sagging when it’s worn. Raw denim, which hasn’t been washed or distressed, is also available and is stiff with a rich blue color.
Denim Fabric Care
Denim fabric is a durable and versatile material, so it’s essential to know how to care for it. You can use various tools and techniques to make your sewing with denim more comfortable and professional.
Washing too often can reduce the elasticity and durability of your denim garments, so cleaning them only when necessary is essential. This will help the color fade less and prolong its life span.
If you need to wash your denim, it’s best to do so in a machine using a mild detergent. Most denim experts agree that you should only wash your jeans inside out, on a cold water cycle, with a detergent designed to help preserve the dye and reduce fading (which is also used in our own laundry).
When washing your jeans, use cold water, close all the zips and turn them inside out. You can also refresh your jeans without washing them by turning them inside out, shaking them out and letting them hang to air dry.
Another important aspect of washing is to avoid exposing the fabric to chlorine bleaches. This can result in a duller, more faded finish and even damage the fibers of your denim.
It’s essential to take your time with the wash process and avoid wringing, agitating or rolling your denim. This will help keep the fabric’s elasticity intact and reduce any creases during the washing process.
Denim Fabric Weights
Denim is a standard fabric used for dressmaking. It comes in different weights, and it is essential to understand the difference between them for the best sewing results.
The weight of the fabric is affected by the weave, the horizontal and vertical warp and weft yarns’ thickness and density, and other factors. The thicker the strings, the heavier the fabric will be.
Generally, 5-6oz is a featherweight denim that can be worn in warmer climates and summer weather, while 10-13oz is a standard weight that is perfect for multi-season wear. It is comfortable enough to wear all year round and can handle most stains and wear and tear.
Midweight denim is 9-12oz, and it is a good choice for jeans, shirts, skirts and lightweight pants. It is more durable than lighter-weight denim and resists fading better.
This type of denim is often woven in a twill weave. Twill is a simple weaving technique combining two or more weft threads over two or more warp threads to form a diagonal pattern.
Heavyweight denim is stiffer than midweight and requires more patience to break in. It can take a few weeks of wear to start feeling comfortable, and it will produce distinct high-contrast wear patterns. It is also more challenging to clean and may need to be held up well for frequent washing.
